New developments in the rowingbike area:

It turns out that I can't help myself; I want to keep on developing the rowing bike. It remains a challenge to make it lighter, faster, more beautiful, and easier to produce.   Now that I'm no longer making new rowingbikes, the business justification and revenue model are hard to come by, but I do derive my own fun and pleasure from the rowing bike :-)

The exploration of 3D printed parts is progressing, partly thanks to rowing cyclist and 3D printing technician Martijn Mateman and the industrial powder printing machines from the bike factory van Raam.
With the 3D printed Ø 250 mm Snek in combination with the lightweight 3D printed bow pulleys, you save about 30% on the back-and-forth weight between the footsled and freewheel housing on your rear axle.
This allows you to row with less tension on the elastic; after all, you have to brake and re-accelerate this mass with the elastic with every stroke.
You will notice, even on flat surfaces, that you row lighter; you lose 30% less energy in reversing the motion of that mass.
Less tension on the elastic is also very pleasant; it's easier to (re)apply the elastic. Especially with the large Ø 250 mm Snek, this was quite tricky and required strength and time – it's rare for you to succeed in one go – to get the tension on the elastic to the desired level.

*In addition to the lightweight 10-spoke bow pulleys https://rowingbike.com/nl/winkel/set-boegkatrollen-extra-licht there are now;

* 7-spoke bow pulleys https://rowingbike.com/nl/winkel/set-lichte-3d-print-boegkatrollen

* The lightweight Ø 250 printed sneks are available. https://rowingbike.com/nl/winkel/3-d-geprinte-250-mm-snek

*For the owners of a late version of the THYS 222 revolver on which the 209 foot sled is mounted, a 'update' is in development; work is being done on a 3D printed part that allows the aluminum bow sprit of the THYS 209 to be mounted on the steel THYS 222. The first prints have been made, but the whole needs to be tested in practice.

* There are larger top bags for the 209 in development, the capacity will be about 22 liters, approximately twice as large as the standard top bag.

Due to the new printed parts, the earlier CNC bow pulleys and sneks are less attractive, which is why I have discounted them, so take advantage of it...

If you want to be able to row just a little faster, there is a possibility to tune:
The rowing bike is standard equipped with high-quality 2RS bearings, which are bearings with a rubber seal that should keep water (and any salt) out of the bearing.
Some rowing cyclists who use their bikes very intensively and often in the rain/salt have had problems with the (usually rear) wheel bearings.
When I receive such a wheel for repair, I often install special SKF bearings with extra heavy sealing. The chance of the problems recurring is greatly reduced, but the downside of those seals is that the wheel runs slightly heavier, so you will have a bit more resistance and go slightly slower.
But you can also go the other way and mount bearings with less rolling resistance. Ceramic bearings have offered this possibility for many years. There are many qualities and brands of ceramic bearings; many recumbent bike suppliers—including myself—have once cut themselves with ceramic bearings that turned out to be of inferior quality. The lifespan was often minimal, and then you had to mount something new again.
Currently, I am testing CEMA bearings in my own rowing bike; CEMA has built up a very good reputation in this area and my findings so far are very positive.
In addition to the many industrial bearings found in your rowing bike, there is the (expensive) locking bearing in the freewheel that provides that direct grip (inpinching for the rowers).
Every freewheel bearing has a certain drag resistance, which is the rolling resistance in the freewheel phase.
Among the freewheels with direct 'grip', the roller ramp-freewheel located in your rowing bike's rear wheel is the one with the lightest drag resistance. But you can 'tune' the freewheel by shortening the springs that press the rollers (or replacing them) with lighter springs. A fiddly job but fun to do.
I prefer the lighter springs, in consultation with the supplier, so the spring travel remains the same but with less pressure, thus less resistance.
I have been riding around with those lighter springs for a few years, and the freewheel works fine, and you notice slightly less resistance, a slightly faster row.

Don't expect too much from the speed increase from a tuning session with lighter freewheel springs and ceramic bearings. If you have broken in the standard bearings well with a few thousand kilometers, you will also find that everything runs nicely light; when you lift your rear wheel at a standstill and give it a spin, it should keep running for quite a while.   With that tuned rear wheel, it all runs a bit lighter; all in all, it may give you an extra 1 or 2 km/h in cruising and top speed. If you are a tinkerer, you might be able to replace the bearings for front wheel, bow pulleys, and foot sled yourself. The wheel bearings of the rear wheel are still doable but for the freewheel bearings and the roller ramp bearing, you need a press and lots of tools, it’s better to let me do that, then easily also do it with the wheel bearings at the same time.  Prices for a ceramic bearing set and any labor upon request.